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Friday, December 3, 2010

Mystic Falls Trail in YNP

According to Yellowstone.net there are over 1,100 miles of hiking trails in Yellowstone National Park.  Considering that YNP encompasses 2.2 million acres I have no trouble believing the claim.  I was fortunate enough to hike a little over 12 miles of those trails in July 2010 - only 1,088 miles to go!

The longest hike was to see Osprey Falls near Mammoth Hot Springs. - See earlier post for review of the trail.

The second hike was the Mystic Falls Loop.  The trail begins at Biscuit Basin which sit on the northern edge of Upper Geyser Basin, which is home to the iconic Old Faithful Geyser.
Probably the most recognizable geyser in the world.
We parked our motorcycles at the Biscuit Basin parking lot and viewed the numerous geysers and springs that the boardwalks surround before hitting the trail to visit Mystic Falls and Biscuit Basin Overlook.  We saw Sapphire Pool which looks so inviting, but at 200+ degrees Fahrenheit is not the place for swimming.
Sapphire Pool is so clear, looks like a natural swimming pool. 
After looking at the other geysers and springs we started the trail on the west side of the boardwalk loop and quickly entered the pine forest.  We passed an information board that the trails from that area including the much longer Fairy Falls Trail and Summit Lake Trail.

The trail forks about 1/8 mile after leaving the boardwalk.  We choose to go right (counter-clockwise), but afterwards I wish we would have taken the trail clockwise.  The sloping is not as steep on the way up and the views descending would have been better in my opinion.
Map of some trails in the Biscuit Basin.
We encountered a series of switchbacks and ascended about 1,000 feet to reach the Biscuit Basin Overlook. From the overlook we watch Old Faithful erupt as well as some other geysers that also erupted.  We could see the features in Biscuit Basin, the Firehole River and most of the Upper Geyser Basin.  The view was spectacular.
Upper Geyser Basin as seen from the Biscuit Basin Overlook.
The Biscuit Basin Loop boardwalk.  Sapphire Pool can be seen.
We continued west on the trail as it ran on top of the ridge and through the forest still trying to recover from a fire many years ago.  After about 1/2 mile the trail has another fork.  To the right/west the trail goes to Fairy Falls.  We took the left fork and turned south towards Mystic Falls.
The trail continued on the ridge.  The effects of the fire is still visible.
The Little Firehole River seen from the trail on the ridge.
The trail soon begins a gradual descent. We could see Old Faithful again.  After another 1/2 mile or so we could see the crest of Mystic Falls.  We continued the trail and were able to get a great view of the entire 70 foot waterfall.  It was a great view.
The crest of Mystic Falls.
Mystic Falls
The trail descent a little farther and then flattened out as it continued to skirt the Little Firehole River.  The trail slows works it way slightly northward and away from the river, back into the forest and intersects the Summit Lake Trail.  We turned left and hiked past the first fork that we took to begin the hike.  Through the forest we hiked until we emerged back at the Biscuit Basin Loop boardwalk.

The hike is roughly a 3 mile loop from the parking lot and is easy to moderately strenuous.  The views are great and you will leave the crowd behind.  I am glad we took the hike.  It was really nice to see Yellowstone from areas that were not crowded and were very peaceful.

Monday, November 15, 2010

You're all wet! So am I.

For the second summer in a row my son and I (along with some friends) decided to do some rafting while on our  motorcycle trip.  Last summer we rafted out of Pagosa Springs, CO.  During our trip to Yellowstone National Park we decided to raft out of Gardiner, MT on the Yellowstone River.

Gardiner is right outside the famed north gateway to the Yellowstone National Park known as the Roosevelt Arch that was dedicated by President Theodore Roosevelt on April 24, 1903.
We stopped for pictures at the famous arch on our way back to camp.

There were four rafting companies each offering full and half day trips.  After doing some research and reading different reviews I chose the Yellowstone Raft Company.  We opted for the 1/2 day trip.  Four of us, including my son and I, got up early and got in a great hike to Osprey Falls prior to our afternoon rafting experience.

We met the rest of our group at the Yellowstone Raft Company store in the afternoon.  We changed into appropriate clothes, picked up our life jackets, and were briefed about the trip.  We loaded up in the vans and rode to the launching locations only about a 1/4 mile from the store.  We carried the rafts to the river and began the wet and wild adventure.  Since there were eight of us in our group and another couple we split up with five in each raft along with our guides.
Raft #1 had five from our group and a guide.
Raft #2 - my son is manning the front right of the raft and getting really wet!
Both of our guides were friendly, funny, and knowledgeable.  They pointed out different mountains, plants, and geological features, including Devil's Slide.  Our guide had a great sense of humor and kept us laughing.  He would skillfully steer the raft toward the biggest waves ensuring maximum splashes.
Preparing for a big wave.
The other group also had some big splashes.
During one stretch of the river the water was pretty calm, but still flowing at a good rate.  Anyone that wanted to was welcome to go swimming or float along side the raft.  That mountain water is a little chilly so I stayed in the raft, but some jumped in.

To the south we could see Joseph Peak and Gray Peak of the Gallatin Range in YNP.  The views were awesome.  We saw birds, but no mammals.  The river was flowing at a good rate so there was plenty of excitement.  Overall it was a much "wetter" adventure than our rafting trip in 2009.

If you are visiting YNP or that area and you want to do some rafting I would check out the Yellowstone Rafting Company.  They did a great job - we had fun, got wet, learned about the area, and we were kept safe.  What more could you want?

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Not as famous but awesome!

When this Texan was planning our trip to Yellowstone National Park a friend insisted in visiting an area outside the park that I had never heard of.  Reluctantly the side trip was included in our plans and I am so glad it was!  The Upper Mesa Falls and Lower Mesa Falls in Idaho do not have the name recognition that Yellowstone has, but they are beautiful and well worth visiting.

The falls are located on the west side of ID 47 a.k.a The Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.  From the west entrance to Yellowstone NP to the parking lot at the Upper Falls is about 50 miles.  If you are coming from the south part of Idaho you will take US 20 from Idaho Springs to Ashton and then turn east on ID 47/Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.  About 14 miles later the entrance will be on the left side of the road.  If you are coming from West Yellowstone you will travel US 20 to Island Park and then south for about 8 miles out of Island Park to the junction with ID 47.  Travel about 13 miles to the entrance to the Upper Falls.
Upper Falls in the morning light
The road to and the parking lot at the falls are well paved.  You will find restrooms, visitor center with exhibits, and a gift shop at the Upper Falls parking lot.  Access fee is $5/car or $1/motorcycle.  There are 9 campsites at $12/night with tables, fire rings, restrooms, and water available. Camping, hiking, backpacking, picnicking, and winter sports are allowed. More info and even more info.

A walkway from the parking lot/visitor center will take you to the overlook of the Upper Falls.  Upper Falls is 300 feet wide and plunges 114 feet creating a thunderous roar and a far reaching spray.  It is very impressive and is actually higher than the Yellowstone Upper Falls by 5 feet.  The spray keeps the sides of the canyon moist which produces a small ecosystem of its own. We saw numerous species of wildflowers and birds including osprey.  Eagles, deer and bear are known to frequent the area.
The only bear we saw was the rock below the falls that we thought looked like a bear
There is a mile hiking trail from the Upper Falls to the Lower Falls that takes hikers lower into the canyon and closer to the Lower Falls.  It runs adjacent to the Henrys Fork River and through some trees.  It is an easy hike.  You can view the Lower Falls from the Grandview Campground and Overlook or from the trail.  The Lower Falls plunges 85 feet creating a fantastic scene.
Lower Falls.  Notice the hiking trail in the canyon.
The two falls and area are pristine.  These two falls are the last two major falls in Idaho that have not be disturbed for irrigation or hydroelectric projects.  The low number of visitors make this an ideal location for hikers/campers wanting some time away from the masses.  The air is clean, the sound of the falls is relaxing, the surroundings are beautiful, and the neighbors are far away!
Henrys Fork River rolling toward the Lower Falls
It may not be Yellowstone, but that is a good thing and it is a beautiful area.  If you are in that area of Idaho I highly recommend you stop by the Mesa Falls and stay a while.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Osprey Falls in Yellowstone National Park

While on my July 2010 motorcycle trip to Yellowstone National Park (YNP) I could see a lot of geothermal features, wildlife, and natural features from the bike and I was able to park and take short walks to many of the famous sites such as Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic, the Upper and Lower Fall, and the Morning Glory Pool, but I wanted to see and experience YNP from less crowded vantage points.
 The pools have such vivid color.
One of the most famous sites in America - Old Faithful Geyser.
At nearly 370 in diameter the Grand Prismatic is the largest hot spring
in the USA and third in the world.
I wanted to get away from the crowds to see some of the more remote sites and two other men in our group were willing to do some hiking with me and my son.  One of the hikes we decided to go on was to Osprey Falls.  Our research indicated that the trail was "moderate," although at least one site designated the hike as difficult.

We left the West Yellowstone KOA early that morning grabbing breakfast at Ernie's Bakery (more about Ernie's later) and then road to the Old Bunsen Peak Road Trail trailhead - 5 miles south of Mammoth.

On the ride to the trailhead we saw two different coyotes (including one crossing the road near the trailhead), bison, elk, and a swan. Of course we saw steam from numerous geothermal features that are otherwise hidden behind trees and hills far away from the areas were visitors are allowed.  The ride was great - so little traffic and crisp cold air (approx 45 - 55 degrees - July 19, 2010).
Coyote near the trailhead early in the morning.
Peaks to the west of the trail.
We started on the hike around 8:50 A.M..  Once on the trail we were totally alone, just four of us.  It was quite peaceful and well worth the early ride.  We headed southeast along the Old Bunsen Peak Road past burnt forest, through grassland, and past Sheepeaters Cliffs.  The trail follows the set of vehicle tracks so for about 3.5 miles hikers have side by side trails.
Sheepeaters Cliffs were named after a sub-band of Shoshone Indians.
The trail skirts around Bunsen Peak and beside Sheepeaters Canyon.  The views of the canyon are awesome and at times dizzying.  At 800 foot deep the canyon is second only to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone (in regards to canyons in YNP).  The column of basalt are clearly visible from the trail.
Wow - that is a deep canyon! 
After passing the Sheepeaters Cliffs and Bunsen Peak we turned south on the Osprey Falls Trail and entered the forest (still recovering from a fire years ago).  The trail quickly begins descending through a series of switchbacks.  We could hear the roar of the falls and see Gardner River long before we could see Osprey Falls.  The last 1/4 mile is a series of 14 switchbacks, often less than a foot wide, that descends 800 feet into the Sheepeaters Canyon and ends about 30 feet from Osprey Falls.
My son heading down the series of switchbacks as the trail nears the falls.

Osprey Falls and the trail - we are nearly there.

Osprey Falls - 150 foot falls.
The vertical cliffs rise straight up and the Gardner River crashes down 150 feet causing mist and spray several feet away from the base of the falls.  The area offers shade, solitude, and a relaxing chorus. 
A great seat to the spectacular site.
Our round trip distance was 9.1 miles (round trip).  I had been working out prior to the trip and felt ready for the hike, but I will tell you the hike back up those 14 switchbacks was tough.   We were in a hurry to meet the rest of the group for a 1/2 day river rafting trip in Gardiner, Montana so we had to push it.

It was well worth it.  I highly recommend the hike to Osprey Falls whenever you get to visit YNP.  You will see so much more when you get away from the crowds.  Be prepared and take water & snacks as well as other hiking type supplies.  Make sure you have comfortable shoes. Now go take a hike! 

Check out various video Taking It Outside including videos from YNP

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Time to go camping

My outside activities have been way too limited for the last 4 months, but I am looking forward to some camping next week.  A friend and I are riding our motorcycles up to Des Moines, Iowa and we will be camping on the way up and back.  My son is competing in the National Junior Forensic League tournament, that is why we are heading up that way.  This will be my first long trip on my new motorcycle - Yamaha Venture.

We will be camping in Petit Jean State Park and Mount Magazine State Park in Arkansas, Lake of the Ozarks State Park and Stockton State Park in Missouri, and staying in a motel while in Des Moines.

We also plan on visiting Mystic Caverns while in Arkansas. Of course we will visit other places and I will be able to post about the state parks, caverns, trails, restaurants, etc.

In July my son and I along with 7 others will be riding to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming (never been so really looking forward to this trip).  Hopefully I will be more consistent with my posts.
Photo of Yellowstone Falls borrowed from http://grandcanyon.free.fr/images/cascade/original/

Friday, March 5, 2010

Hiking in the rain or snow.

There are few things worse than hiking with wet clothes.  Having quality waterproof yet breathable outwear is a top priority for me.  I don't won't to be caught in a precipitation without my ARC'TERYX Theta SV bib pants made with GORE-TEX.

The Theta SV pants have a high waist and a stretch back pannel that provides a snug, but comfortable fit.  It took me a couple of times of wearing them to get use to the high waist.  The waist band is adjustable which is really nice and the adjustable suspenders makes custom fitting easy.  The zippers on the pant legs zip about 3/4 of the way up making getting them on and off easily with hiking boats on.

The pants are made from what GORE-TEX calls Pro Shell fabric.  It is the same fabric used in their Pro Shell Men's jacket.  The fabric is stiffer than what I am accustomed to and it makes more noise than most fabrics, but the upside is worth it.

The pants are reinforced in strategic areas so that they will last longer.  The knees are cut and sewn in a way that makes the bending of the knees smooth and comfortable.  The fly zipper, the leg zippers, and the pocket zippers are all water-proof.  You can more info from the ARC'TERYX site.

I have actually worn the pants while riding my motorcycle in the rain and they are, as ARC'TERYX claims, waterproof as well as being great at cutting the wind!

Hiking or riding the Theta SV bib pants are comfortable and they will keep you dry while being breathable.  This is only the second outwear garment I have made from GORE-TEX, but it will not be my last.

I am also impressed with ARC'TERYX.  The pants are my only product from ARC'TERYX, but I will look at their products when I am shopping in the future.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Waldo Canyon near Manitou Springs, Colorado

Just west of  Colorado Springs and Manitou Springs and right off of US 24 is a nice hiking trail in Waldo Canyon. I left my son to play with his cousins at my sister's house in Colorado Springs and drove to Waldo Canyon for a nice easy/moderate hike one October Sunday afternoon (a couple of years back) and really enjoyed my hike.

Leaving Colorado Springs on US 24 I passed Manitou Springs, which is a neat town to visit also.  The trail head was about 2 miles west of Manitou Springs right off of US 24.  I am told that on nice days the parking lot can be full.  When I parked there was only one vehicle other than mine.
Waldo Canyon as seen from the loop/trail head intersection
From the parking lot I followed the trail east as it ascended up some landscaped steps and some switchbacks.  With the trail head and the first portion of the trail near the highway it was a little noisy, but the scenery was great.

At about 1.5 I had to make a choice of following the trail east or west, either way would loop around the canyon and bring me back to this intersection.  From this part of the trail I could see Manitou Springs.  After some consideration  I headed west (clockwise).
Trail heading west a distance from the intersection
The trail was well marked and easy to follow.  The ascent was gradual.  Not long after heading west the trail took me through a lot of trees.  I enjoyed the shade.  The trail slowly turns north and then back east where the trail heads east for a good distance.

I stopped and enjoyed the silence (once down in the canyon the noise of the highway is blocked) and a snack.  There are a lot of good boulders to rest on.

From the higher portions of the trail I could see Pikes Peak

Pikes Peak seen from north side of Waldo Canyon
The trail crossed a small stream several time, but crossing was easy.  There were numerous birds along the way and evidence of deer in the area.  The views of Pikes Peak and Colorado Springs were great.  The leaves were changing and the splashes of yellow & red were really beautiful.

The trail is less than 7 miles (6.8 according to this site).  Elevation gain is around 2000 feet.  I am not a expert hiker, but I would consider the trail easy to moderate.  I did enjoy having my trekking poles with me.

This short trail is a nice get away with some great views.  I think it is well worth the drive up US 24.  If you decide to take the trail in the morning leave early and drive past the trail head to Woodland Park and enjoy breakfast at The Hungry Bear.  You will have a great hike after an awesome breakfast.